Rich, nourishing water in oil moisturising cream, especially created to strengthen brittle and weak nails.
Difficulty Level: Challenging
Equipment List: Scales, Bain Marie, Glass Beakers, Whisk, Thermometer, pH Strips
Formula:
| Phase | Ingredients | % | To Make 30g | To Make 1kg |
| A | Rice Bran Oil | 20 | 6g | 200g |
| A | Safflower Oil | 15 | 4.5g | 150g |
| A | Murumuru Butter | 10 | 3g | 100g |
| A | Cocoa Butter | 25 | 7.5g | 250g |
| A | Olivem 1000 | 10 | 3g | 100g |
| B | Water | 16 | 4.8g | 160g |
| B | Vegetable Glycerine | 5 | 1.5g | 50g |
| B | Xanthan Gum | 1 | 0.3g | 10g |
| C | Myrrh Essential Oil | 2 | 0.6g | 20g |
| C | Vitamin E Oil | 5 | 1.5g | 50g |
| C | Preservative ECO | 1 | 0.3g | 10g |
Method
Phase A – Oil Phase
In a glass beaker in a bain marie, melt together the cocoa butter, murumuru butter, olivem 1000, rice bran oil and safflower oil until all ingredients are fully melted.
Phase B – Water Phase
- In a separate beaker, blend together the glycerine and xanthan gum until a smooth paste is achieved.
- Slowly dribble this mixture into the water, stirring continuously.
- Heat to 70c whilst stirring
Phase C – Cool Down
- When both phases are ready, remove from the heat.
- Slowly trickle the water phase into the oil phase, stirring continuously.
- Whisk continuously as the mixture cools to achieve an homogenous blend.
- Once the mixture is below 40c, stir in the temperature sensitive vitamin e, myrrh essential oil and preservative. Blend well.
- Transfer into jars and leave to set overnight with the lid off to prevent condensation.
Packaging: We suggest using a glass or PET jar. 30ml is a good size for this product as only a little is used at a time.
How to use the product: Apply a small dab to the cuticle and nail and massage in. Allow to soak in for five minutes before removing any excess.
Variations: You may find that you need a firmer or softer balm, depending on the temperature the product is kept at. For a firmer balm, increase the cocoa butter and decrease the liquid oil. The opposite will give a softer product.
Hints and Tips: It is important to mix well to prevent the mix from splitting or curdling.
INCI*: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Aqua, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Olivate, Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid.
* This is the correct INCI as it needs to appear on the label in the EU. We make every effort to ensure this recipe conforms to current EU cosmetics regulations to ensure you are making an item that is safe to use. If you wish to sell your items, a safety assessment and stability testing would still be required and we do not claim that the recipe will meet commercial requirements.
